Born in Brooklyn. Handcrafted in Spain. Shipped to your door.
The Douglas Morgan Experience.
Our partners at work.
Artisan Shoe Construction Methods
There are three basic methods of shoe construction: cementing, Blake welting, and Goodyear welting. For our Men's Dress collection, we use both Blake and Original Goodyear welting methods. Each of them has its advantages, and defines how the sole is attached to the upper.
When talking about high-end footwear, the Goodyear Welt is often contrasted with the Blake stitch. With the Blake stitch, the upper is sewn directly to the sole, and it generally creates a more flexible type of shoe. On the other side, Original Goodyear Welting process has been associated with excellence and superior workmanship, involving +50 craftsmen and +100 handcrafted phases on each pair.
Sign of superior quality - Goodyear Welt
In 1872 Charles Goodyear invented a machine capable of stitching the welt to the insole, thus revolutionizing the quality of footwear worldwide. Due to its longstanding heritage, little needed maintenance, waterproof durability and clean aesthetic, Goodyear method is highly valued in the high-end shoe market.
Options galor.
Unleash Your Creativity. More than 300 Materials
A vast repository of materials: Suedes, Sartorial Fabrics, Hand Painted Leathers, Handmade Patina Crust, Polished Calfs, Patent Leather... etc. We have partnered with the best leather suppliers in order to provide the best raw materials.
“The patina art craft method is a hand dye-ing procedure of leather, which creates a completely unique patina with an aged effect.”
— Douglas Morgan
The Art of Handmade Patina
Patina is an art crafted and designed for shoes by Olga Berluti, member of the famous French brand Berluti which took the world by storm in the 80’s. Hand coloring of shoes was then a fairly new thing in the world of luxury shoes and leather products
An Antique Finishing Technique for Leathers
The patina art craft method is a hand dyeing procedure of leather, which creates a completely unique patina with an aged effect. The procedure begins with unfinished crust leather, which has been tanned and handled, but not dyed yet.
The artist applies the dyes manually to the uncut hide and the fully assembled shoe, with the usage of white cloths, brushes and sometimes sponges, to create a unique look on each and every pair of shoes. With attentive care and superior savoir-faire, a dedicated craftsman perfects the personality of each pair of shoes, helping forge their special “soul”.
The Patina Artist, a Very Skilled Job
The Patina art craft is still considered to be very young. There are many patina techniques still to be discovered. Very few artists lead this new art, and we are proud to work with the best patina artist in the country.
Discovering new coloring techniques and using secret recipes and materials makes the patina artist job a very skilled and unique one. A good patina artist is able to reproduce a color precisely on demand, and uses it effectively on shoes as also on belts, bags or any other luxury leather goods.
The Leather & the skins.
Our calf tanneries come from North West Spain, Germany and Italy.
The types of leather below represent a full array of leather skins. They are all used in luxury shoe production and they differ from the "look" and "texture" point of view.
Painted Calf Leather
Crust calf leather (painted calf) enables artisans to hand paint the pieces with special creams and brushes. The look is very artisanal. Source is Conceria Tolio from Italy (same crust material used by Santoni, Berlutti, Andres Sendra, among many others). Learn more about Conceria Tolio on https://conceriatolio.com/storia/. Raw leathers are then hand painted by our artisans.
Besides the "plain" Painted Calf leather, we also offer it engraved with different textures, like full grain or pebble grain.
Box Calf Leather
The majority of quality men's shoes are made from the hides of calves. Box calf is primarily distinguished by its fineness, pliability, and grain. Box Calf leathers are hand painted by our artisans.
Calf Suede
Also called "Suede" or "Lux Suede". This leather is created from the underside of the animal hide, as a result it is softer, and more supple and can have the appearance of a "furry nap".
Kid Suede
Kid Suede is the most soft, velvety suede leather type which comes from small goat skins. The skins are pretty small which increases the price of leather (consumption per pair). It has a more refined finish with a smaller grain on the surface.
Polished Calf
Polished calf refers to rectified grain calf. This eliminates any skin imperfections. The look is not as natural as a regular, plain full grain, but the look is very good, luxurious. This type of leather is quite expensive because of the post-production processes that it needs at the tannery. Polished Calf Leathers are hand painted by our artisans.
Patent Leather
A type of leather finish whereby the surface is treated to create a highly glossy, shiny appearance.
Nubuck Leather
Lightweight, supple leather made up of the most outer layer of a hide, the surface is buffed to give the grain a light velvety finish called a "nap".
Sartorial Materials
We offer a full array of sartorial fabrics, flannels and velvets. Sartorial patterns like Tweed, Plaid, Tartan, Herringbone, Leopard, etc.
The result of mixing these sartorial materials with classic hand painted leather in a shoe, can be truly astonishing.
Exotic Skins
Alligator Genuine Skin
“Alligator mississippiensis” skin renders a very attractive and fashionable leather. The leather is strong, supple, durable and very expensive. A bony layer within the skin adds a protective shield, while a dimple on each scale makes a very exotic look.
Hailing from the Southeast USA and frequently harvested from farm-bred gators as well as from wild animals, American alligator skin is a classic, durable and versatile leather. The American alligator’s hide is the soft and more pliable material. This is because the skin of this reptile is less bony than the skin of crocodiles. This softness makes the alligator’s skin easier to work with than the skin of other reptiles, making it easier to work with for cutting, stitching and folding.
Ostrich Genuine Skin (As shown in above picture)
Ostrich leather is one of the finest and most durable leathers. It’s a luxurious leather well-known for its softness, flexibility and durability. In spite of its softness, Ostrich leather is unsurpassed for its tactile strength. It is, in fact, one of the strongest leathers available. Naturally occurring oils in the leather contribute to its durability, preventing cracking, even under extreme temperatures and sun exposure.
The main distinguishing feature of ostrich leather is the quill or feather socket markings. The “full quill” area of the leather is the most sought after and therefore the most expensive type of ostrich leather. The quill pattern is the result of large follicles which each contained a feather.
Python Genuine Skin
Snakeskins are very desirable for shoes because of the unique grain, scales, and color patterns. Snakes are skinned in two ways, cut down the belly scales leaving the small scales in the center, “belly” or “front” cut python, and cut down the back leaving the wide belly scale in the center, called “back” cut python. We use the “front” cut python.
The scales were the snakes protection from the elements and are essentially like a callous, dead skin. The size of the scale will vary depending upon the area of the skin cut. The scales have a “lip” open toward the tail will grab and aid the snake in crawling. This lip is your assurance that the snake is genuine.
The Douglas Morgan luxury brand was created in 2019 as an affiliate partner of NuRenN, Inc.